I set out in the dim blue light of morning. The same way I have done a thousand times. Wondering how I ever got this lucky, wondering how I ever got this free. Fog was hanging heavy in the valley, following the river where it bends. I crossed the Vaal at seven, the Sandrivier at ten. All the along the R721 South the farmers were preparing fields for planting while cows congregated around windmills and water troughs. The mountains gave way to open grasslands and the sky was smeared with cirrus clouds as far as the eye can see. I left the Orange River in my rearview at noon, entering the Great Karoo and ancient high desert plains. To the East I spied the Gariep Dam and to the West lay majestic Mesa towering above ancient ocean beds.
I could feel the grip the city seems to have around my heart and soul these days slowly easing up and it felt like I could breathe a little deeper. The mind tends to wander out there on the road and it drifted to my father, sorting through his herd of cows. His eyes carefully searching for any abnormalities and his hand grazing the backs of the tame ones that let him in close. I could smell the dust kicked up by milling hooves in powdery dry manure out there in the holding pen.
I thought about my mom and little sister getting ready for school and as the contrails stretched out across that Southern Sky I thought about my friends and colleagues, calmly guiding airliners to their destinations through crowded skies.
The tall grass slowly gave way to Karoo vegetation. Succulents and grey brush dotted with pepper trees and Acasia. Purple desert flowers baking in the mid day sun. The Loodsberg Pass, roughly 3800 Ft above sea level started dropping into the Tweefontein valley and the Sneeuberg stretched out ahead of me like a postcard on the icebox door. Road signs warned of snow but not today. It's summer in the Karoo and heatwaves were dancing off the blacktop.
I turned Westbound onto a greyish dirt road and crossed the railway line. A farmer was busy digging holes for fenceposts and he seemed morbid in the relentless heat. I gave way to a blue pickup truck. I was playing tourist and pulled over several times to take in the magnificent scenery. A little ways down that dirt road I turned the corner and before me appeared the mighty Compass Berg. An 8500ft behemoth dominating the Western horizon. Steep rock faces and an imposing presence that made my stomach turn. I will be walking in its shadow and I will be exploring it's valleys this week but I know I'll have to be careful. A mountain does not give a damn about you. It is not forgiving and I'll be alone so careful planning will be required if I'm even going to get close. I pulled over to take some pictures and a young Kudu Bull strolled into view. Unbothered by my presence and indifferent to the awe in my heart it slowly disappeared behind a slight hill and left me alone, camera in hand.
I turned into Ganora Guest Farm just outside Nieu Bethesda and following the dirt road down I found myself among massive poplar trees and an old homestead complete with loading docks and sheep handling facilities. I was met by my friendly host and directed to my campsite. It was still hot but I moved quickly to get the camp set up and ready for the beautiful Karoo night. I jumped into the swimming pool to wash off the dust of the day while my fire was getting ready for the Springbok heart and fresh tomatoe salad. I met my neighbour in the campsite next to me and retired to my tent, a million stars above.
For all the whiskey in my head and vastness of the desert I still wonder about this life and the people in it. I wonder what it is all about. This rush towards a certain demise. I wonder why I get so down and tired. I wonder why good people get hurt. Why some of the people I love got such a raw deal. But then I catch myself and realize...I am in the most beautiful place in earth, the workers are merrily chatting about their day around modest cooking fires and there will be another day waiting for us all. Another chance to make things right and to live a life worth living..
JB